The home inspection is the single most important due diligence step in buying a house. It's your last real opportunity to find out what you're actually buying before you're legally committed — and how you use the results can save you thousands or protect you from a catastrophic mistake.
Why You Need an Independent Inspector
You need your own inspector — not the one suggested by the listing agent, and not a "walk-through" by a contractor the seller recommends. The inspector's job is to represent your interests, and there's an inherent conflict of interest when the inspector has any relationship with the seller or listing agent.
How to find a qualified inspector:
- InterNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors) and ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) are the major professional certifications. Look for inspectors who hold one or both.
- Ask for a sample report before hiring. Good inspectors produce detailed, photo-documented reports, not one-paragraph summaries.
- Ask for referrals from friends, family, or your lender — but vet them independently. Reviews on Google and Yelp can be informative.
- Ask the inspector directly: do you do this full-time? How many inspections do you do per year? (An active inspector does 200–400+/year.)
Cost: A standard home inspection typically runs $300–$600, depending on home size, location, and what's included. For a home in the $300,000–$500,000 range, this is among the best money you'll spend in the entire transaction.
Be There for the Inspection
You are strongly encouraged — not just permitted — to attend. Most inspectors will spend 2–4 hours going through the property and will walk you through their findings in real time.
What attending gives you:
- The ability to ask "how serious is this?" on the spot
- Context for items that will appear in the written report
- A direct demonstration of concerns (the inspector can show you where water is getting in, not just write that it is)
- A much better understanding of the home's systems and maintenance needs, regardless of what you negotiate
- A chance to ask about age and remaining life expectancy of major systems
If you can't attend, ask for a call walkthrough after the report is delivered.
What a Standard Home Inspection Covers
A standard inspection is a visual inspection of accessible systems and components. The inspector looks at what can be seen without opening walls, removing flooring, or disassembling systems.
Exterior:
- Roof condition (from the ground or a ladder depending on pitch and access)
- Gutters and downspouts
- Siding, trim, and paint condition
- Foundation (visible portions)
- Grading and drainage around the foundation
- Driveways, walkways, decks, and porches
- Garage door operation and safety sensors
Structural and Foundation:
- Foundation type and visible condition
- Signs of settling, cracking, or movement
- Floor structure where visible (basement or crawlspace)
Roofing:
- Shingle condition — missing, curling, granule loss
- Flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights
- Visible decking condition
- Estimated remaining life expectancy
Plumbing:
- Water pressure and flow at fixtures
- Visible supply and drain lines for material and condition
- Water heater: age, condition, temperature/pressure relief valve, proper venting
- Toilets, sinks, showers, and bathtubs
- Signs of leaks under sinks and at fixtures
Electrical:
- Main service panel: amperage, breaker condition, labeling
- Ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets in wet areas
- Arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) outlets in bedrooms and living areas
- Visible wiring condition
- Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors
HVAC:
- Furnace and air conditioning: age, condition, basic operation test
- Ductwork and air returns
- Filters and maintenance records if available
- Approximate remaining life expectancy
Interior:
- Walls, ceilings, and floors: cracks, stains, damage
- Windows and doors: operation, condition, seals
- Attic: insulation, ventilation, visible roof deck condition, signs of moisture
- Basement/crawlspace: moisture, structural elements, insulation
What Standard Inspections Don't Cover
Many buyers are surprised to learn what a general inspection does NOT include. These require separate specialists and separate fees:
Sewer scope ($100–$250): A camera sent through the main sewer line to check for root intrusion, cracks, bellies, or collapses. Highly recommended for homes over 25 years old. A failed sewer line can cost $5,000–$20,000+ to replace.
Radon testing ($100–$200): Radon is a radioactive gas that naturally seeps from soil and accumulates in basements and lower levels. It's the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US. Testing takes 48–72 hours with a charcoal canister or electronic monitor. EPA action level is 4 pCi/L; mitigation systems cost $800–$2,500.
Mold inspection ($300–$600): Warranted when there are visible signs of mold, musty smells, or known water intrusion history. General inspectors can note visible concerns but don't test for mold species or airborne concentrations.
Pest/termite inspection ($75–$150): Some lenders require it (VA loans always do). Separate from the general inspection; checks for active infestations, damage, and conditions conducive to pests.
Chimney inspection ($125–$350): Required if there's a fireplace or wood stove. Chimney inspectors check for cracks in the liner, blockages, and proper draft — issues a general inspector cannot evaluate.
Well water testing (varies): For homes on private wells, test for bacteria, nitrates, and common contaminants. Your county extension office can advise on what's appropriate for your area.
Oil tank sweeps (for older homes in certain regions): Detect buried oil storage tanks that may require expensive remediation.
Reading the Inspection Report
A good report is 20–80 pages of findings, photographs, and recommendations. The volume is intimidating but manageable if you read it systematically.
Categorize findings into three buckets:
Safety issues: Items that pose immediate risk to occupants. Electrical hazards, missing handrails, carbon monoxide risks, improper gas connections. These should be addressed as a condition of sale or inspected further by a specialist — not just noted.
Major defects: Items that are broken, near end of life, or require significant repair — roof with 1–2 years of life remaining, HVAC system needing replacement, evidence of active water intrusion, foundation concerns. These become your negotiating leverage.
Maintenance items and minor defects: Normal wear, cosmetic issues, minor repairs. Caulk needing replacement, paint touch-ups, weatherstripping, loose door handles. These are your responsibility as a homeowner and are not typically negotiated in a normal transaction.
The report will likely have 20–50 items. Most will be maintenance items. Don't panic at the length. Focus on the major defects and safety items.
How to Negotiate After the Inspection
You have three options after reviewing findings:
1. Request repairs: Ask the seller to fix specific items before closing. Pros: you know it gets done. Cons: you have no control over quality of work — sellers may use the cheapest contractor available. Best for safety issues and items where proper repair is verifiable.
2. Request a credit: Ask the seller to reduce the price or credit you funds at closing to address the items yourself. This is often the cleaner approach — you control the repair quality and timing. Lenders sometimes have rules about seller credits; confirm with your lender how much is permissible.
3. Accept and move on: For a home you love in otherwise excellent condition, accepting minor issues in exchange for not rocking the boat is sometimes the right call. Don't nickel-and-dime over a $200 item if you're buying a $400,000 home in a competitive market.
What not to do: Don't send the seller a list of 47 items including every maintenance note in the report. This reads as bad faith, overwhelms the negotiation, and can offend sellers into terminating the deal. Prioritize. Ask for what matters.
When to Walk Away
Some inspection findings genuinely warrant walking away, especially if the seller won't negotiate:
- Major structural issues: Foundation movement that's ongoing, significant structural member deterioration, evidence of serious settling that hasn't been remediated
- Severe water damage or active mold: Extensive mold throughout the structure, chronic moisture intrusion without a clear fix
- Knob-and-tube or aluminum wiring (in certain configurations): Significant electrical hazard, expensive to remediate, and can affect insurability
- Evidence of major undisclosed work: Systems or structure that show significant prior problems the seller didn't disclose — raises questions about what else hasn't been disclosed
- Environmental hazards: Abandoned oil tank, significant asbestos-containing materials requiring abatement, lead paint on a home with young children (though disclosure and management is common)
The inspection contingency exists precisely for these scenarios. Use it. Losing your time and a few hundred dollars on an inspection is far better than owning a house with a $40,000 foundation problem.